Affectionately known as kite orchids for the long “tails” of some of the flowers in this vast natural genus, the masdevallias are small- to medium-size plants that have single-leafed, short stems on a creeping rhizome. The leaves are oval to long, and mid- to dark green in colour. The slender flower spikes come from the base and may be single-flowered or have several on a stem. The flowers are very variable in shape and colour.

To follow this system, each year cut away all but four canes. Tie two to the wire and cut them back to 6 to 10 buds each; cut the other two back to two buds each. The tied canes will produce the current year’s fruit, and the two-bud canes will produce canes for the following year’s fruit.

The largest flower in the genus is that of M. acrura, which measures 30cm (12in) or more vertically from top to bottom. This impressive length arises because of the long, tapering sepals. These evergreen epiphytic, or occasionally lithophytic, orchids inhabit cool, shady and moist areas of forest woodland high in the Andes of South America.

In southern Canada, where the frost-free period is short and maximum summer daytime temperatures average less than 90, recommended varieties are Burpee’s VF Hybrid, indeterminate, 72 days, VF; Spring Giant, semideterminate, 65 days, VF; and Springset, determinate, 67 days, VF.

In the East and Northeast, where the frost-free period is longer than it is north of the Canadian border but maximum summer day-time temperatures still average less than 900, recommended varieties are Beefeater, indeterminate, 75 days, VFN; Better Boy, indeterminate, 70 days, VFN: and Spring Giant, semideterminate, 65 days, VF.

These names can easily be unravelled to identify the specific genera as Sophronitis, Brassavola, Laelia and Cattleya, but when more than three genera are involved, the name given to the resulting cross is personalized to one individual, making the name less clear on the label. Potinara, for example, is the result of crossing Brassavola, Cattleya, Laelia and Sophronitis. With such a complex alliance, it becomes impossible to describe the typical “cattleya”, although all related hybrids are loosely referred to collectively as cattleyas, whatever their make-up.

If you are in search of good looking outdoor furniture to be used for your deck and you prefer quality furniture that displays a sense of style and luxury, then deck furniture made of deck would be the best option. None of the other wood furniture can be as good as the teak and cannot match its excellence. On the other hand teak is also very expensive than other furniture molded out from other materials, and the benefits you receive from them are always worth their price.

The looks of teak deck furniture are for sure very understandable. There is after all, something that has to be said regarding the durability of the wood that is been used in the boats craftsmanship. If teak can tolerate or bear the harsh things of the powerful sea, then furniture of the teak deck can surely bear all the wear and tear that you backyard would put through.

To achieve the best of both worlds, many growers like to cultivate their young plants in the greenhouse, and as these mature or come into bloom they are brought indoors. By rotating the orchids between the home and greenhouse you can ensure a constant display of flowers throughout the year.

Young plants are not always suitable for growing on indoors; as with all young life, more attention to detail is required, and very young plants will be less likely to adapt without coming to harm.

The ultimate achievement is to see your orchids in full bloom displayed to their best advantage in pleasant surroundings. If your greenhouse is sonic distance from home, you can bring the plants indoors to enjoy them throughout their flowering time. However, where the orchids are to be grown indoors all the year round it will require a little more than just placing the plants on display. Priory orchid cases arc specifically designed for this purpose and are becoming more and more popular.

The genus Vanda belongs to the large group of monopodials which are widely distributed throughout Africa and the Indian subcontinent, the Far East and Northern Australia. The plants grow by producing a single upright rhizome with leaves on alternate sides. New leaves always come from the top.

Aeridovanda Mundyii shows the complete adaption of an epiphyte. It can exist with nothing around the roots. It is monopodial and has little reserves of water. The continued existence of the plant is completely reliant upon the foliage, terete leaves which have become completely rounded, thinner than a pencil, their surface reduced to the minimum to prevent overheating and dehydration.

The leaves may extend all the way down the rhizome, or in time, as the lower leaves are shed, a ‘leggy’ stem is exposed. The stem will retain the roots and more will appear higher up the plant. If the centre of the plant is damaged in any way, new growth will come from the base. Food and moisture is retained in the thick fleshy leaves and roots, enabling the plant to withstand long periods of drought if necessary.

One of the features of the old Eclipse Fish was the balance between the three main nutrients nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, and the fact that the potash was released for plant uptake steadily over a long period. Was that the explanation why there was seldom any mildew to be seen in the nursery? Certainly, very few of the outside parks used fish manure. It may all be very circumstantial, but there is no doubt that it makes sense. I use the modern product extensively, and I don’t struggle with mildew, nor do my roses hang their heads.

Decomposition of the organic content begins slowly, and as the decomposition bacteria proliferate, nutrient availability increases gradually and reaches a peak about 80 days after being put into the soil. After this there is a gradual tailing off. This is a long sustained feeding action, and it indicates the best way to use this manure.

Thunias are a few species make up this small genus of beautiful orchids front India. These, and one very old hybrid that has stood the test of time, make superb-looking plants in summer with tall, fleshy stems softly leafed along their length. When mature, they will reach 60cm (20) or more. The papery flowers appear in a frothy cascade at the apex of the stem and last for about three weeks in summer.

Humidity is extremely important to these cool-growers, but cold and damp must be avoided. The humidity should be in the atmosphere rather than around the plant itself. The base of the plant and surrounding roots should be kept dry. For this reason equitant oncidiums should not be attempted indoors.

C. devonianum has dimunitive pseudobulbs and requires these thick roots to ensure a ready supply of moisture, although not all small-bulbed orchids possess thick roots. Within another twelve or eighteen months this root ball will be solid and the plant ready for ‘dropping on’ into a larger pot.

Paphiopedilums make a meagre root system, but the few roots that are produced from each growth grow continuously passing on a steady supply of nutrients to the plant, which otherwise have little means of moisture storage. Without pseudobulbs the roots become even more important to the plant, and if they die prematurely the plant will suffer from starvation and dehydration. -Therefore underwatering is the great enemy of paphiopedilums.

In their natural environment both are epiphytic species; Cymbidium roots would be lightly covered by debris in the axils of branches, whereas the roots of the Maxillaria would be hanging free below the branch eventually to form a thick mat of truly aerial roots.

Encyclia cochleata flower is certainly not typical of an orchid flower although it is typical of its group within the genus and therefore not unusual. Encyclia contains many examples of these `upside down’ flowers, where the lip is seen at the top of the flower and the sepals and petals are held below. These are called nonrespinate flowers, as they do not turn to bring their lip on the lower plane as do most orchids. There is presumably some advantage in this for the pollination of these flowers.

Indeed, this species was discovered very late in the nineteenth century, and was not seen in flower until 1891. To the best of our knowledge it has received little recognition from various authorities by way of awards. Neither has it been touched by the hybridists. The raising of the species from seed has also proved difficult.

They require immediate greenhouse conditions where possible, but will also succeed in a warm, sunny room or sun lounge. They require plenty of light, without strong sunlight, and most have a resting period for part of the winter.

Being under constant supervision, any problems will be spotted quicker, as well as anything that may be a sign of poor health. You will also be quicker to notice when a plant is in need of water, and so on. It follows that the observant grower can attend to the needs of their plants the moment they arise, and has – therefore a better chance of growing good plants.

There is little doubt that the finest orchids are to be pAR grown in a properly controlled greenhouse. However, a greenhouse which is not looked after can irQuipm become a death trap and certain types of equipment are necessary to make sure that temperatures, humidity and light remain in balance and are suitable for the orchids.

The first essential in any greenhouse where orchids are to be `grown is some form of artificial heating. If you arc growing only cool-house varieties, heating will be necessary for approximately six months of the year. Intermediate or hot-house orchids will require heating all the year round to maintain the higher temperatures at night. Whatever form of heating is decided upon, it should be more than capable of holding the required temperature without working continuously at full capacity. Also, an additional form of heating should be kept at the ready in case of emergencies when one system may fail.

Tomatoes grow best in soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5. For early crops in regions with winter frost, start plants indoors or in a hotbed five to seven weeks before night temperatures are expected to stay above 60; set the seeds 1/8 inch deep. When seedlings become about 1 inch tall, transplant them to individual 3- to 4-inch pots. Move the plants to the garden when night temperatures are expected to remain above 60.

The gooseberries recommended here, all American varieties. They grow on very cold-resistant, thorny 2- to 4-foot bushes. The 3/4- inch berries ripen in midsummer and are usually greenish yellow, pink or red. The pink and red varieties are often sweet enough to eat fresh when they are fully ripe, but the greenish ones are quite sour.

Good varieties with sweet berries, few thorns and large crops are Pixwell, greenish pink; Poorman, red; and Welcome, pink. Plants will bear berries for 25 years, and a mature plant ordinarily yields 5 to 10 quarts annually.

Many of the species bloom in the autumn, while others produce their flowers in the spring at the beginning of the growing season. Beginners could not do better than to include such beauties as Laelia am. and L. gouldiana in their first collections.