Garden sheds are one of those things that are are often neglected, but they require at least some minimal maintenance or you will soon be faced with a falling down garden shed that you will have to decide whether it is worth repairing or not. I would guess that a good shed should last a minimum of 10 years, maybe even double before requiring a major fix-up. Poorly built structures could start deteriorating much quicker than that.

When faced with a aged and decrepit garden shed the question is “Do I replace my shed or rebuild my old shed”. There are pros and cons to both approaches. The answer depends on your budget, your taste, and your ability to swing a hammer.

I had to answer these questions for two separate sheds this year – my own tiny falling down pine board lean to shed, and my mothers lovely large cottage style split roof design which had a severe water problem. My mothers shed was actually quite an easy decision. Her shed was quite large, so it would have been quite expensive to replace. Also, it didn’t actually look in bad shape, except for the holes in the roof and floor. As it turns out, I got away pretty lucky. I did have to entirely replace both roofs, but thankfully there was vapour barrier between the plywood floor and the joists, so I only needed to put down a new plywood floor. The cost for materials was about $550.

Organizing your garden shed might be the best thing you can do for your garden this summer. If you are met with a jam packed, cob-web filled pile of rusty tools and cracked pots every time you go out to find the rake, perhaps your garden shed is not living up to it’s full potential.

If you can’t find your tools, and have to dig through half empty bags of potting soil and broken garden ornaments, this may lead to your gardens’ worst enemy – gardening procrastination. If you think about your shed like a big closet, and the only way a closet can be useful is if it’s organized, then maybe you’ll finally decide to get a handle on your shed clutter.

But how do you go about organizing your gardening stuff? Well, it may be hard to do, but the first thing you need to do to get things orderly and organized is to totally unpack your shed. Take out the rolls of wire would only be useful for fencing in a horse and a few cows (unless you have livestock, then it’s alright), remove the 12 cans of designer stain that have long ago separated because you left them in the shed all winter and they froze. Throw out everything that can’t be used, give away anything that you haven’t used in a year.

So you think you want to buy a greenhouse? This very question is on a lot of peoples minds these days; mainly because growing your own food has become an appealing option to buying at the local store for health and safety reasons. However, you need to know a few things before you commit to a greenhouse to have a good experience.

The first question is; does size matter? When it comes to buying a green house the answer is yes. The size you buy will depend on several factors including the space you have available for a greenhouse; what you intend on growing in your greenhouse and whether you are using the greenhouse as a season extender or year-round grow house.

Lets talk about the space in the yard itself. If all you have is space that is covered by shade, this is not an optimal space for a green house. You can get away with combination of direct sunlight and shade as long as the direct sunlight hits your greenhouse at least 4 hours per day. The ideal location is one where the grow house sits in direct sunlight all day long, especially in the winter months and in the northern regions of the country.

Some climbers like ivy need no support other than that provided by their aerial roots whereas others, as for example the climbing roses, need tying in with string, plastic ribbon, webbing or a similar artificial aid.

Tradition has it that clematis produce their best efforts when the roots are shaded but the flowers are allowed to reach up into the sun. However, I believe a well-drained soil to be more important, otherwise losses in winter are liable to be heavy. A mulch of peat mixed with a handful of bone- meal is all the feed necessary.

Before attempting any planting examine the soil at the foot of an average house wall. Usually it consists of builders’ leavings, sub-soil, pot crocks and other aridities, possibly enriched by a few tea leaves. All this must be excavated and replaced with soil from a fertile part of the garden.

A good mixture consists of 5 parts of garden soil to 2 parts of peat plus a 6-in. pot of bonemeal to every barrowload of the mixture. Only a narrow border need be made, 2 ft. wide by 15 in. deep, for given a good start healthy roots will penetrate less profitable fields.

It can be generally assumed that any plant with large leaves can be grown into mature specimens if time and conditions are available.

The glossy green leaves of Ficus lyrata are shaped like the body of a violin and have faint yellow veins running through them, but the overall impression is purely green. Not particularly easy to care for, it does better if the roots are allowed to grow through the bottom of the pot and into a container filled with moist peat. It takes many years to reach maturity but a height of 20 ft. is quite possible when plants are growing in large pots. However, by the time plants attain this height they will have almost inevitably lost most of their lower leaves. Conditions required are warm, moist and shaded; the temperature should not fall below 16C. (60″F.).

Philodendron bipinnatifidum are a dark, glossy green in colour. Excellent plants fir situations by a large pool, particularly if it is possible to allow the aerial roots into the water.

Another pest that ruins the appearance of affected plants. Easy to detect but very difficult to kill off completely once they have made a home in the tangled branches of such climbing plants as stephanotis and hoya. One is often invited to visit the greenhouse of an enthusiastic amateur and see the wonderful range of plants being cultivated under one roof.

Many of these plant collections are managed extremely well but often enough an incredible infestation of mealy bug will be shrugged off with the comment, ‘Of course, there is a bit of bug about.’ The sad part of it all is that a thorough drenching spray regularly repeated would lead to considerable improvement.

Mealy bug is another pest that may be encountered. Not very particular about which part of the plant he inhabits, he does have a penchant for finding his way between twisting stems and overlapping leaves where he can he particularly inaccessible to any pest control that may be used. One consolation is that mealy bugs are not difficult to see, as they wrap their young in a cotton wool-like substance. Adult bugs are very similar to small wood lice and powdery white in colour.

Abide by the fertiliser manufacturer’s instructions and better results will be a little larger, and procure a properly balanced potting compost. It is seldom, if ever, that one sees good-quality plants growing in what is often referred to as garden dirt. Composts should contain peat, sand, fertiliser and all sorts of other ingredients if potted plants are to do well.

There are many varieties of adiantum to choose from, all of them delicately beautiful, reasonably easy to care for and supremely adaptable. Plant them in dish or bowl gardens, as individuals to stand on top of a pedestal, Or in hanging baskets. To see them at their best the latter method cannot be bettered.

Like fertilisers, all insecticides should be used as instructed, as that seemingly harmless little extra may well cause leaf scorch and other damage. Pests should be treated as soon as they are seen, as any delay will make their control just that much more difficult.

A number of indoor plants may be propagated by this method, and it is also an excellent way of reducing the height of rubber plants which are getting out of hand. Plants are air-layered simply by removing a section of the outer bark and wrapping a handful of wet sphagnum moss around the exposed area, or by making an upward cut through the main stem and wrapping wet sphagnum moss round the incision.

Relax; it is not nearly so dreadful as the foregoing may suggest. In actual fact the house plant grower is not too much troubled by pests, and if you follow my earlier suggestion about purchasing plants from a reliable source then the chance of introducing pests to your collection of plants is further reduced.

Fortunately, the majority of really poisonous insecticides are not available to the general public, but even those that are considered safe should be handled carefully. Certainly, when handling insecticides rubber gloves should be worn as general practice, and any plants that need treatment, particularly with a liquid solution that is sprayed on, should be treated out of doors.

On most varieties stems will, quite naturally, become leafless and woody in time. When this happens and the plant is no longer attractive the stems should be cut to within a few inches from their base. Keep the potful of stumps as they usually grow again from the base. The stems can then be cut up into sections some 2 to 3 in. in length.

After dusting the ends with rooting powder the cuttings should be pressed horizontally into a seed box filled with moist peat until the pieces of stem are almost covered. Any growth buds (small swellings on the stem) that can be seen should be uppermost. As soon as the first two leaves have opened, pot into 31-in. size pots. Many dracaenas (D. Redcdge in particular), and philodendrons with larger leaves can also he propagated in exactly the same way.

Dracaena massangeana is one of the more impressive foliage plants though space demanding, but good value if the room can be afforded. When freely planted in beds of compost or when growing in their natural habitat they become quite substantial plants.

Aglaonema is widely distributed in South East Asia. 16 to 2eC. (6o to 70F.). The suitable temperature for Aglaonema is less than 16C. (60F.); for a short period this may do little harm, but it is essential to provide adequate warmth if these plants are to do well.

A. rhodocyanea is one of the most exotic and unusual of all potted plants. Large, strap-like overlapping leaves form a perfectly watertight urn (hence the common name). When purchasing, look for plants with lighter grey colouring as the darker ones are less attractive. To prevent damage to the natural grey bloom on the leaves it is important to ensure that they are not cleaned or rubbed in any way.

When buying plants in flower it is best to select those that arc more backward in order to get the longest life possible from them. The ideal stage is when the pink bract is a little above the water level in the urn. Plants that have developed to the stage where the blue flowers in the otherwise pink bract are fully open should be avoided.