north February

February also is the month to do some serious planning of the garden for the coming season instead of waiting until you have the seeds or plants in hand ready to be planted in spring. This is an ideal time to consider all the possibilities, color combinations, sizes and textures, space requirements and all the important details that will make a garden more than a mere collection of plants.

Garden planning should be done on paper after a list of the plants you prefer has been compiled. Quadruled paper which may be secured from office supply stores or artists supply shops is a great aid in making planning on paper easy because the lines give you an exact scale with which to work, use the eight or ten scale ruled paper.

Give an index or key number or letter for each of the plants you want to grow. Then on the basis of their size and form, color and texture of both foliage and flowers, develop a plan on the paper.

You will be amazed at how simple planning can be and how superior results are over the hit-or-miss, spur of the moment type of planning which is so commonly done a few minutes before planting.

Reading, studying and planning your garden and landscape activities are good ways of occupying oneself during the month February for the Northern gardener. The average home gardener devotes far too little attention to planning, that is, seriously thought out and studied arrangements.

Too much planning is of the spur-of-the-moment type given just before seeds are sown or plants set out. This seldom proves satisfactory and undoubtedly accounts for the fact that there is much more good horticulture practiced than good garden art. Gardens and plantings of any sort should be studied on paper where various arrangements can be worked out without involving any actual planting.

Groups of plants can be moved about effortlessly on paper until what seems like the most harmonious scheme has been developed. This is the way truly artistic gardens are obtained; it also is the most economical way to get results. You can determine on paper just how many plants will be needed and the space they will take.

One way to save space is by means of succession crops. On our plan we use the letters “f.b.” meaning “followed by. For example, the first row at the west end of our garden this year will produce an early crop of peas to be followed by a late summer crop of beets and carrots. The earlier crop of beets and carrots will be grown near the middle of the garden where no succession crop will follow them because, by the time they have been pulled and eaten, the vines of the squash and muskmelon in the adjacent row will be spreading over the space they occupied.

Although it has not been shown on the plan, a third sowing of beets and carrots will probably follow either the potatoes or the earlier planting of sweet corn. Companion crops afford a third means of conserving space. They involve nothing more complicated than raising two or more crops simultaneously in the same row. The classic example practiced by many generations of our ancestors was growing pumpkins in the cornfield. In our plan, we intend to raise radishes between the cucumber plants.

Try to keep a list of garden jobs on a card to do during March, and hang it where you don’t lose it so you’ll be sure to get the jobs done when time and weather permits in the East.

The bed south of our sun porch is a problem; it is in the heavy shade of a shellbark hickory, also shaded by a huge honeysuckle. It is not only shaded, but it’s dry. I find that even with watering it is rather hard to keep primroses alive in this spot so I am going to use it as a place to try out some of the named varieties of lily turf that I got last fall. I have ‘Majestic,’ ‘Lilac Beauty,’ ‘Monroi White,’ and Silver Ribbon. These are all varieties of liriope. They can take shade, rather dry growing conditions, and also the birds. The planting is just under the hanging bird feeder and the birds, especially sparrows, going after the food they throw out, are rough on tender plants like primroses.