These are insectivorous plants with sensitive leaf hairs which, when a fly lands on them, induce the leaf to close up slowly and trap the fly inside. The plant feeds on all manner of insects in this way and an incredible number of gullible people buy this plant fondly thinking that they are going to take it home and sit indoors watching this wonder of nature methodically gobbling up all the flies in the room.

They had grown to some 3 ft. 6 in. in height and, incredibly enough, had lost practically no leaves in this time, while similarly aged individual plants had long since passed their best. Later experiments with equally difficult plants were tried and it seemed proved beyond doubt that the majority fared very much better when placed in larger containers with moist sphagnum moss packed around the pots.

Almost as much a part of the Victorian era as the aspidistra, the hare’s-foot fern is not encountered very often today. Something of a pity, as this is one of the easiest possible plants to grow besides being rather interesting and to some extent amusing. For ferns the leaves are rather coarse and not very attractive, but the rhizomatous growth from which fronds emerge will always attract attention.

These hairy rhizomes creep over the edge of the pot and look fOr all the world like hare’s feet. Kept on the dry side in cool conditions in winter and watered and fed during the summer months, they present few problems. Having acquired one plant it is not difficult to increase by division of the rhizomes in the early part of the year. Grow them in pots or hanging baskets; when planted in hanging baskets they can take on a rather weird appearance in time.

The house plant grower with an experimental turn of mind may well he able to grow on aphelandra plants from one vear to the next if he has at his disposal some simple propagating equipment with which to raise new cuttings. To do this allow the bract to die back and lose its colour before cutting the plant back to a firm pair of leaves.

Growth that appears from the arils of those leaves should he allowed to develop two pairs of leaves of their own before they are severed from the parent plant. A clean cut straight across the stem should be made about half an inch below the lower leaf. Propagate in a pure peat mixture and pot on into a proper growing compost as soon as the plant has rooted through to the sides of the small pot in which it has been propagated.

For the plantsman desirous of obtaining a slow- growing house plant Ardisia could possibly be the ultimate choice. The nurseryman may well sow the seed in the traditional manner in a reasonably high temperature in the spring of one year and find that he is on the board of directors by the time the plant has attained its maximum height of some 4 ft. and is ready to he marketed. Highly improbable, you may feel, but this has actually happened to my knowledge.

Mother bulbs are expensive to purchase, but case of culture and spectacular flowers make them worthwhile acquisitions. Using pots only slightly larger than the diameter of the bulb, potting up should be undertaken in the autumn, J.I.P.3 being a suitable compost. Whatever compost is used it is essential that it should be rich, and not too thin and light.

Propagate by cuttings about 5 in. in length, preferably in spring, but non-flowering top cuttings should present little difficulty at any time provided there is a warm, close atmosphere in which to house them.

In order to retain their rich colouring, which is almost entirely cream with touches of pale green, it is essential that plants should enjoy the lightest possible position. On account of the light factor plants grown entirely indoors are rarely as good as those given greenhouse or garden-room conditions. Sun protection is only necessary on the very hottest days. In good light more mature plants of three to four years of age will take on the most exciting pinkish-red colouring in the centre of the bract. With the variegated pineapples the great moment comes when, after some three or four years, a pineapple develops and begins to emerge from the centre of the rosette.

Growing plants of reasonable quality presents few problems to many saintpaulia owners, but they are often perplexed by the fact that otherwise healthy plants are reluctant to flower. Much of this is due to the fact that most fertilisers manufactured for indoor plants contain a very high level of nitrogen in their make up, and foliage plants do particularly well on such a diet.

And, with reasonable care, it does seem to be almost indestructible, and to almost thrive on neglect. The most dangerous enemy of the sansevieria is the over-zealous owner who feels that he or she must be foreVer watering, watering, watering. Having very thick, fleshy leaves the plant is able to go for long periods without attention.

It has been my contention for many years that the most important single requirement for the successful growing of saintpaulias indoors is adequate light. A sunny window-sill, with protection from strong, direct sunlight only, is the ideal position, and the kitchen window-sill for preference as there is usually less curtaining, so more light there.

The arrival of orchids in Europe came about with the age of exploration, and it was the ships’ captains who saw a lucrative deline in bringing back many strange and exciting tropical plants from the new worlds being discovered.

The genus Cirrhopetalum was first described in 1830; there are about 3o species, and not as many hybrids. Elizabeth Anne `Bucklebury’ AM/RHS is one of the most successful hybrids in the genus and was raised by a famous old firm, Stuart Low Co., in 1969. Its parents are Cirrhopetalum longissima and C. rothschildianum.

Originally it was the wild species which were cultivated, but within the last 130 years the raising of man-made hybrids has taken priority. Many of the species are in a sorry state, being almost extinct in the wild, as their habitat is being rapidly destroyed, but at the same time greatly sought after in collections, where they have become rare items indeed.

Moreover, being an artificially-produced plant, the resulting hybrids are immediately more vigorous and therefore easier to grow. A further advantage is that those artificially-produced hybrids have grown up in a controlled environment, and unlike the jungle plant it has not had to withstand the rigours of importation and adjusting to unnatural conditions.

The pseudobulbs have been reduced to such an extent they are barely visible, and are stem-like in appearance, being short, and thinner than a pencil. The tcrcte (cylindrical and tapering) leaves, on the other hand, are long by comparison and have become much fattened. They will snap like a young carrot if mishandled.

This species must always be grown in this natural fashion, and when it blooms from the apex of the pseudobulb, the usually single, large and heavy flower will lack the necessary support to hold itself erect. It will droop vertically, hiding most of its beauty, although not its fragrance, carefully shielded between the two blucygreen leaves.

Smaller, almost non-existent, pseudobulbs will require heavier, more fleshy leaves to compensate. A pseudobulb may support a solitary leaf, or numerous leaves. The gigantic Grammatophyllum wallisil ‘Burnham’, one of the largest species in the world, the long sugarcane-like pseudobulbs flanked for most of their length by huge leaves.

They prevent water vapour from collecting on the surface. They are also bristly and must greatly deter marauding pests. This type of protection can also be found on the Hower stems of most paphiopedilums and a few masdevallias.

It is well if attached to a piece of cork bark and suspended from the ceiling of the greenhouse or garden room. First wrap sphagnum moss around the roots, then use plastic-covered wire to bind the plant and moss to the bark. From then on periodic immersion of the plant and bark in a bucket of water seems to be all they require to succeed. In fact, Tillandsia usneoides (Spanish moss) will grow perfectly well without compost or moss, simply by draping it over any convenient support. The thread-like fOliage is silver-grey in colour and can add considerably to the interest and appearance of a plant collection.

T. cyanea is quite different. It has recurving green foliage, and in time the most exotic bracts appear, pink in colour. From the sides of these bracts petunia-blue flowers are produced in summer over a period of several weeks. To increase plants the clumps are teased apart and individual pieces are planted in peaty compbst and subsequently into compost similar to that suggested for bromeliads.

Giving a plant an interesting common name can make a deal of difference when the time comes for the nurseryman to dispose of it. This being so it is odd that the commercial grower does not give more space to producing the pick-a-back plant.

Growing feather palms to a reasonable size is a long, slow process, so plants of specimen size are invariably expensive. The plants require a warm, light position in which to grow, preferably in a moist atmosphere. Water freely during the spring and summer months, and in moderation at other times. In the garden room, and indoors where it is practical, plants will benefit from having their leaves syringed with water during the summer months.

They are also smaller than those, and can be guaranteed to attract attention in almost any grouping of plants, however exotic the others may be. A moist support and warm conditions is again advised as this species is inclined to he a little temperamental if conditions are not to its liking.

Do this by spraying regularly for by leaning the plant over the support more heavily with a watering-can – if the plant is not tilted the surplus watermill run into the compost and make it much too wet. The aim when watering should be to keep the compost moist, but not permanently saturated.

Colouration can be found on orchids, in particular among the tall-growing, two-leaved Cattleya species known as the bifoliate cattleyas. Purple shows up clearly on new growth, but is gradually lost. It may appear on the leaf’s upper surface and on the new sheaths protecting the growing pseudobulb. Odontoglossum grande covers the undersides of its leaves with delicate brown flecking, and many other examples may be found.

This presents a flat appearance and does not form a rosette. There are many hundreds of different species within dozens of different genera, which are widely distributed from Africa through India, Asia, right across to the Philippines and Australasia.

With no enforced rest and no tilting stress to the plant, they become the most beautiful specimens under care, exhibiting their luxuriant clean foliage which is a joy in itself. The flowering of such plants comes as an extra bonus! The green-leaved species which originate from the far east can be grown in a cool, shady situation. The larger, more fleshy varieties from the Philippine Islands and Malaysian Peninsula require warmer conditions, also with good shade. Very few pests will attack these orchids, which are among the cleanest to grow.